Sewing with Cath Kidston: Quilted Purse Attempt 2 - 4

Ever since my disastrous attempt at making the "Quilted Purse" from Cath Kidston Sew book. I have decided to try again since it looked pretty easy and I know it couldn't be that difficult. Right? Anyways, this past weekend I rolled up my sleeves and tried again and ended up making three somewhat successful versions of the quilted purse with slightly different tweaks.

My first version is made using Hawaiian fabric purchased from Sweet Kapua Variety & Fabric Shoppe on Etsy and lined with some pink swiss dot fabric from Fabric Mart. If your wondering, I did follow all the instructions except for quilting the outer fabric and used some interfacing instead. I actually loved this version very much except for a few mistakes:

• First, I sewed the white rick rack too close to the inner flap so that when I flipped  it right side out the rick rack virtually disappeared. Thankfully the pink lining peaked out just enough to give it a faux piping along the flap.
• Second, I used interfacing that was too thin for a purse, which made my purse flopping and wrinkly despite my attempts to iron it.
• Third, I did not notice that a small corner of my flap had a cut in it. The cut isn't too noticeable, but its in the worst possible location: the front flap. Boo.
• Fourth, didn't really notice until the end, but if you have a design that runs one way then it will be upside down when you look at it from the back side. See the picture of the back the purses below and you will see what I mean. If you don't mind than its alright, but you have been warned.
• Fifth, not really a mistake, but some bad planning. I didn't about what type of closure I was going to put until the end. I used a button maker and covered it with two layers of swiss dot fabric (fabric was really thin). I ended up hand sewing some super thin vintage elastic cord to the flap. This may not be the best way to do this since the cord may not stand up to constant use. Next time I would probably sew the elastic cord into the flap by sandwiching it between the two fabric layers.
• Lastly, when I cut out the lining using the included pattern I noticed that it was the same dimensions as the outer fabric pattern. This meant that when I followed the directions and folded the top and bottom 3/8 inches and sewed it into the bag that the lining would be 1.5 inches short. I didn't really think this would affect the bag until I finished my third version. :-( Don't worry I will add my recommendations after my pattern review.

Front View

View of lining and hand sewn snap.

Version 2 of the Cath Kidston quilted purse was made using some japanese fabric from the Sweet Kapua Etsy store and a fat quarter I purchased from Joanns. This time I used mid weight fusible decor interfacing from Joanns, some vintage white jumbo rick rack trim, black ribbon and vintage sew on snaps. The results are as follows:

• First, I like this version overall. The mid weight interfacing made quite a difference in the overall appearance of the purse. The purse looked smoother and was able to hold its shape much better.
• Second, I also sewed the rick rack on correctly and looks nice with busy frog print.
• Third, I sewed the flap portion closed before I realized I would need to hand sew the snap to the fabric lining only. This wasn't too bad since the fabric lining was really thin and could easily be pulled away from the outer lining fabric when you are hand sewing. Of course this might be a coincidence or dumb luck for me.
• Lastly, I don't know what I was thinking using thin black ribbon. The little loop was just my dumb attempt at giving it a handle although I did make the ribbon too short and used a super thin handle that can snap at any time. Double boo!

I know you're probably wondering when am I going to actually make this a "quilted" purse like the instructions said on the Cath Kidston Sew book? Well look at version 3.

Version 3 with free motion quilting.

Made from quilting cotton purchased from Joanns. If the lining looks familiar than you are right because it was from the stretch cotton twill that I used to make my disastrous Fruit Salad dress. Of course I still had to make it my own by adding some brown pipping and trying to do some free motion quilting instead of making the quilted diamonds like last time.

Botched free motion quilting detail.

Despite this being my fourth attempt (aka third successful attempt) at the quilted purse I still hit a snag or two:

• First, despite using a darning foot, lowering the feed dogs, setting the sewing speed to slow and using a quilting sewing needle on my machine. My free motion quilting results were not so good. I had a lot of long threads from pulling the fabric too fast and my swirls were not swirly. Of course, I didn't practice or anything like that since free motion quilting should be easy right?? Another classic experienced novice mess up.
• Second, this was around the time I noticed that my lining was too short. So now I know that I should cut the lining fabric a bit longer.
• Last, this was my mom's favorite and has promptly asked to have it despite my crappy attempt at free motion quilting. Mom claims it doesn't look as bad as I think it is, but then again I was thinking my results would like Vera Bradley and not "crappy".

Here is my full pattern review for the Cath Kidston Quilted Purse.

Three versions of Cath Kidston Quilted Purse.

Back view of the quilted purses.

Pattern Review (The Pros): This pattern review is for the "Quilted Purse" pattern that can be found in Cath Kidstons Sews book. A paper pattern is included in the book. I liked how the instructions can be followed by beginner, but you will need to read the instructions a couple times to make sure you have the sequence correct. I love how you have many options on trimming the purse and really making it your own. Also great that you can easily lengthen or shorten the pattern pieces to make it in whatever size you want. I see a bag for Ipad using this pattern! Also be warned that this pattern will try to get you to do a bunch of hand sewing so be prepared.

The Cons: The two cons I have about this pattern is the hand sewing required to achieve the quilted look. The instructions are included for marking out the one inch diamond grid, but the book doesn't include instructions on how to hand quilt the purse nor does it include instructions for machine quilting the diamonds, which would have helped me out. Another con is that pattern piece for the lining is too short once it is completely sewn in. There is an almost 1.5 inch gap between the bottom of the purse and lining. This issue can be easily amended, but someone doing this for the first time will be surprised. Lastly, not really a con, but something to keep in mind. I mentioned earlier that if you have fabric print that goes in one direction that it will the design will be upside down in the back because the outer fabric is one long rectangle folded in half. Just another surprise for the novice seamstress.

Did it come out like the pattern picture? Yes, despite my little "tweaks" in trim.

Do you need to make adjustments? Yes, will need to lengthen the lining pattern by 2-3 inches (includes the seam allowances) to make it fit the purse. I suggest being conservative and cutting the lining fabric long, baste the seam allowance and check it for fit inside the outer fabric. Also need to be aware when using one directional patterned fabric. See my previous comments.

Pattern Level: Beginner. 

What could I have done better? How about reading all the directions first and following them the first time around before I decide to be creative. Also to double check my work instead of rushing through it.

Would you sew this pattern again? Yes, I see a potential Ipad cover in my future.

Would you recommend this pattern to a beginner? Yes, just take it slow, read through the directions a couple times, measure twice maybe three times and enjoy the process. Also don't be boxed in with what the picture shows you. I have realized that trims and closures can be just as interchangeable as fabric and can drastically change the look of the end product. Also don't be afraid to mess up. Experiment and don't forget that interfacing is your friend when it comes to making purses look really good.

Pattern: Quilted Purse pattern from Cath Kidston Sew book purchased from Amazon.com.

Fabric: Version 1: Hawaiian Fabric Cotton print from Sweet Kapua on Etsy & Swiss Dot Cotton lining from Fabric Mart.
Version 2: Japanese Kawaii fabric from Sweet Kapua & Cotton Print (fat quarter) lining from Joanns. Version 3: Quilting cotton from Joanns and stretch cotton twill from Fabric Mart for the lining.

Trim: Vintage white rick rack, black ribbon, self made button using button maker and brown cotton pipping.

Techniques: Lining, quilting, interfacing, button making, piping and rick rack application and hand sewing metal snaps.

Look what came in the post!

I came home the other day and found two packages waiting for me. One of them was from my all time favorite online fabric store: Fabric Mart. They were having an extra 75% sale and this is what I got.

Yards of beautiful Rayon Challis fabric for $2.49 a yard. I am planning on using the painterly designed fabric on the bottom to make myself a dress for an upcoming vacation.

Beautiful Kimono/Sakura/Floral print cotton fabric, dotted cotton fabric and apple green stretch poplin.

Gray rayon jersey for $1.50, purple lining for $0.38 a yard and zebra print polyester charmeuse.

As an added bonus they were having a special where they will give you ten yards of mystery fabric for free for orders that are over $75. Here is what I got. Some striped stretch cotton shirting, a black and white fabric that is thin and clingy and some ITY in a crazy animal print. Don’t know what I’ll do with the ITY, but at least it was free.

Feeling inspired yet? That’s not all! I also received my book order from Amazon that was full of crafty goodness. Here we have the Cath Kidston’s In Print book, Craft Hope, Sew & Stow and my favorite the Everything Alice Book.

 I am in love with the Everything Alice book. It has tons of crafts for the lovers of Alice in Wonderland and those who want to have an Alice-inspired party or to add a touch of Wonderland in their home. Here are my favorite crafts from the book. White rabbit and Cheshire Cat masks made from mosaic tiles.

Invitation Pillows.

Wonderland tea party hats.

And Wonderland aprons.

The book contains all the patterns and instructions to make these items and more. They even have recipes for red velvet cupcakes, macaroons, lemonade and everything Alice. So if you are a fan of Alice in Wonderland than order yourself a copy. I got mine from Amazon. Hope you’re feeling inspired because I am.  

Summer 2011 Quilted Purse Disaster

Last night I decided to work on a birthday present for my BFF who just celebrated her birthday last week. My BFF will be traveling back to visit next month so I figured I had time to make something small for her. I recently purchased the Cath Kidston Sewing book, which had lots of cute projects. I decided to make the Quilted Purse since it looked pretty easy.

Being the “Experienced Novice”, having made several bags before and feeling confidant with my sewing skills I decided to just wing it. Briefly browsed through the directions (I’ll just use them as guidelines), decided to use some already precut scraps (it was a pain to pull out the pattern and mark it on the fabric) and eyeballed the purse dimensions. I ended up cutting both the outer fabric and lining as a single piece instead of the two pieces for the lining as instructed. I’m sure you know where this is going.

Here was my workstation when I just started making the purse as I was feeling confidant and full of myself. The pink Hawaiian fabric was the going to be the outside and black floral fabric in the back left was my lining.

Because I saw the word “quilted” in the title for this purse I thought I was suppose to use batting (the rectangular white stuff in my picture above) to make it look quilted. Please note that I have never quilted anything in my life, but have read about it on countless blogs and have shopped in quilting stores. So I felt fairly I was experienced enough to figure out how to quilt. I followed the book instructions to mark one inch square grids on the right side of the outer fabric, I basted the batting underneath and sewed away. I then basted some rick rack on the flap piece, pinned the lining (right sides facing), sewed up the sides (with a spot for turning) and this is what I ended up with.

The outside.

The lining side.

Despite the glaringly obvious flap that was sewn on backwards and the crappily applied white rick rack. I was just going to work with it and fold up the purse and sew up the sides. The backwards flap will just be a cute contrast I intentionally did to break up the pattern (so I told myself).

Then I realized as I folded l the purse piece in half and tried to sew up the sides that my sewing machine couldn’t sew through the double layer of fabric and batting. The layers were just too thick when doubled up. I went back and read the supply list for the quilted purse and I realized that batting or any type of backing wasn’t listed anywhere. The quilted purse was supposed to be made with two pieces of fabric and the hand sewn grid outline was the quilted design detail. The purse wasn’t supposed to really be quilted at least not quilted using batting. No wonder I couldn’t sew through the layers of fabric. So ends my embarrassing story of the “Experience Novice” thinking she can once again wing it while sewing something. Sadly I am left with something that looks like this. 

I don’t know what to do with it. Perhaps use it as a hot pad? Or maybe I can sew elastic down the middle or another piece of fabric and use it to hold my crochet hooks? Or pin it to my inspiration wall to remind myself what not to do? Your suggestions are welcome. I have not been deterred. I still have time and fabric so I will give this another go, but I will read the instructions and use the pattern this time. I’m sure I can make it. Wish me luck.

Clothing Designer Alert: Calypso St. Barth for Target

As a "novice" seamstress I have shunned buying any new dresses since I thought could always make one in a fabric, style and size that I wanted. I was also under the impression that what was supposedly "in" right now didn't really match up with what I thought was "in" or "stylish" for me. You should have seen my expression when I walked into Target this past weekend and came face to face with the Calypso St. Barth for Target collection. I don't know if it was the colors, the well made dresses (dresses are lined/embroidered), the fact that I would love to dress as if I was on a beach vacation all year long or that I could fit the size medium dresses that made me love this collection. I think it was all of the above.

I have been a great follower of the Target x Designer team ups since its inception. My favorite clothing line was the Luella collaboration. Fit has always been an issue with these designer collaborations. Even at my skinniest I seemed to always fit the bodice of the dresses, but the skirts would be humongous and sometimes vice versa. Sleeved tops have been issue too where the shirt would fit perfectly, but my upper arms would always be squeezed like sausages. As of late, I haven't been too impressed with the latest designs until now.

Here are some of my favorite Calypso St. Barth for Target pieces:

I love the Maxi Dress and Khaki Dress

I ended up purchasing several dresses from the collection and haven't looked back since. So go to Target now if you want a chance on getting your hands on these dresses. I ended having to order the maxi dress online because my size was not available in any of the stores in my area.

Here are some more pictures of the Calypso dresses. I recommend wearing a belt with the tunics if you are as shapeless and short as I am and want a more tailored look. Of course this won't be any problem if you wear it to the beach.

Tunic Dress

Khaki dress



My favorite colored tunic dress


Sorry for the lack of sewing posts. My sewing has been stalled due to the unfinished sewing room/craft room remodel. Finally got my dad to agree on coming over this weekend to help me hang the cabinets so hopefully I will have a great completed sewing room remodel post and finally have some space to start sewing again.

Pent Up Sewing Energy

I had some pent up sewing energy this past weekend and really went overboard on some super easy patterns. The first pattern was McCalls 5360 Infinite Dress. I purchased this from Etsy and when they say its easy. It's really easy. All you have to do is cut the pattern on the fold and sew one seam. Since the pattern is meant for a knit fabric you don't even have to hem the edges unless you really want to.

I made the first one in under an hour. Had to set up my sewing machine, cut the pattern and play with my new serger so it took longer than expected. I used a floral knit jersey that was super stretchy that was from Fabric Mart and here is the finished product. So cute! I loved this style of dress since you can wear the dress in many different ways depending on how you fix the straps.I loved this style of dress since you can wear the dress in many different ways depending on how you fix the straps.

Dress Configuration 1



Dress Configuration 2



Dress Configuration 3

 Sadly I ran out of fabric when I made the floral version. The dress is a bit short, but can easily be worn with pants or shorts. If you ever make this dress just know that it takes about 3 5/8 yards of fabric for the full version. If you want a shorter version you might be able to get away with 3 1/4. This all depends on how short you want it. Of course in typical "novice seamstress" style I was so stoked with my first success that I wanted to make more. So I went to Joanns and raided their clearance section and found a red polyester jersey knit fabric and made another version. Sadly this version ended up so-so.

Red Polyester Knit Front

Back View

As you can see the fabric isn't as clingy as the first version. For this version I decided to hem everything and it seemed to make the fabric less stretchy. Also the weight of this type of knit seemed too heavy to comfortable make all the other versions of the dress I made before. It just felt like the drape was all wrong for this dress design. Oh well lesson learned. I really need to stick with a knit that has a lot of stretch, possibly four way stretch if necessary. I prefer to work with the printed knits since I really love the floral version, but it can be a hassle since the back side of the fabric can show through sometimes. My quest continues. Perhaps some really nice ITY knit might work for this dress. I've seen that the ITY comes in a lot of yummy prints.

Since my sewing mojo was on a roll. I decided to tackle another sewing project using some ruffle fabric that I found on clearance while I was at Joanns. I have been loving the Coastal Curtsy Skirt that was featured on the No Big Dill website and just recently ordered some Ruffle Fabric to make one of my own. I was lucky to find this ruffle fabric at Joanns so I decided to make a practice skirt. This skirt was just as easy as the Infinite Dress. Two measurements, one cut and one seam. I didn't hem the skirt or even add a waistband as suggested since it just slipped over my waist. Although I may add one in the future.

Coastal Curtsy Skirt Front

Coastal Curtsy Skirt Back

I love how this skirt fits. I am so in love with the back "tail" as my mother calls it. I had a great time swishing it back and forth. The cut of the skirt makes the ruffles hang vertically in front and horizontally in the back. Sheer genius. My ruffles are an inch long so a bit shorter than the one that was made on the No Big Dill blog, but it still looks great. I can't wait to make more of this. I also have plenty of fabric to make a regular skirt for myself and maybe some leggings or a dress for Buni.

My last project from this past weekend was a simple circle skirt made from Panne Velvet using the tutorial on the MADE website. Another super easy skirt that involved a little bit of math. I was surprised how easily it came together. My next version will be a bit shorter as I overestimated the length. The skirt is really twirly so it does easily fly up in case your very modest like me. Phew.. Definitely a very successful weekend of knit sewing. Hope everyone had a great weekend.

Circle Skirt in Panne Velvet

The Missing Novice

Egads. Sorry that I've been neglecting my blog as of late. Been very busy planning and executing my daughters birthday party (she is two years old now) and I'm also just getting over Easter and Mister's birthday as well. Now my birthday is coming up next weekend. Sheesh. Between you and me I really don't like birthdays. Enough about that. I wanted to show you my sewing room work in progress. Drum rolls please:

Behold, my sewing room in progress.

Cabinets and countertop

This is just one half of my little sewing station that Mister has allowed me to build in my daughter's play room. The bottom cabinets (ready built from Lowes) that you see here are actually to store away her toys, but the countertop area belongs to me. What's missing is the three wall cabinets that will be placed above this (with my Father's help), which I will use to store things like this.

Vintage Lace from Ebay

Yes, that is a whole lot of lace. This picture doesn't even include the other lace, ribbon and trims that I have been purchasing and hoarding wrapping and storing away. I have discovered a new place to feed my need for vintage sewing: EBAY. I know I'm pretty late on figuring that out, but oh well. I will show more pictures of my additional Ebay finds later.

Lastly another must have that I had to have in my new sewing room/playroom is a big table to sew and cut patterns on. Here it is in all its messy glory.

My sewing/pattern cutting table

Close up of the mess on the table.

As you can see I've already set up some of my daughter's (Buni) toys around it. Buni has made the area under the table her makeshift play house. She loves to hide underneath and play with her toys. Hopefully when my wall cabinets are set up I'll have a spot to put the additional lace I have in the basket and my box of trims.

So will this end up to be the sewing room of my dreams? Will Buni be willing to share her playroom with the Experienced Novice? Is the Experienced Novice secretly an Ebay obsessed vintage sewing monster? Stay tuned!

The Smock Dress circa 1972

Front View 

Back View

Another weekend sewing project that ended up so-so. I seem to have a very bad track record with my pattern selection. *sigh* I guess everything will always be a trial and error when it comes to sewing. I mentioned that I was going to work on this pattern below. Simplicity 5154 Smock Dress circa 1972. I was drawn to the dress because of the really cute sleeves and simple construction. While I was making the dress I realized that it was loose enough that I didn't need to put the zipper that they said was needed. Of course the lack of zipper should've given me an inkling on how loose the dress was, but my "spidey senses" just weren't tingling since I was so elated that I cut out 20 minutes of zipper sewing.  The final dress looks more like a Mumu dress that my Grandma "B" from the Philippines used to wear. I looked at my dress and the dress pictured on the pattern and the only thing I can think of is that they must have taken in the dress quite a bit for the pictured version and that is probably why they needed a zipper. Strangely my version is very flowy and A-line and not straight like the pattern version. Hmmmm... I'am not daunted. I can still wear the dress, but I would need to wear a belt to make it look less Mumu-ish. Anyways, here is my pattern review:

Pattern Review (The Pros): Very easy to put together. Only four main pieces (front skirt, back skirt, yoke and flutter sleeves. Also I was able to omit the zipper and still fit into the dress. The dress has a lot of give and is very forgiving.

The Cons: When I tried on the dress it just wasn't flattering. I think I will blame the flutter sleeves. The sleeves were just too fluttery. Of course it may also be my notoriously bad fabric choice again, but I just wasn't liking it. Now that I looked at the picture I wonder if its because its meant to be worn with something underneath?? Hmmm.. Another possibility is that I don't have very svelte model arms and I just hate the way this highlights might my very unsvelte arms. Naaahh. I'll just blame the sleeves.

Sleeve and Yoke Detail

Did it come out like the pattern picture? Yes. I added some rick rack on the sleeves to "jazz it up" and I really like it. 

Do you need to make adjustments? Yes, read above.

Pattern Level: Beginner. I would change it to super easy if you are able to not use a zipper and still fit into the dress. 

What could I have done better? I think if I make this dress again I would like to make the butterfly sleeves bigger. I would also like to make it in a drapier fabric such as rayon or perhaps a knit to see how it looks like.

Would you sew this pattern again? On the fence with this one. The dress is super easy to put together, but not as fitted as I would like. My answer is maybe.

Pattern: Simplicity 5154 circa 1972 purchased from Historically Patterns on Etsy.

Fabric: 100% cotton from Joanns. 

Trim: Dark brown ric rac from Sweet Peas Treat Shop on Etsy.

Techniques: Lining, gathering and trim application.